How About No Gifts This Year?

How About No Gifts This Year?


My husband’s mother and her sister share a home. Recently, they asked us for money for a necessary repair. Without it, they said they would have to take a bank loan. I was surprised that their finances are so tight. During the year (and especially at Christmas), they spend money on unnecessary purchases without hesitation: sending us silly gifts we never use and treating us to meals out, despite our protests. I feel odd giving them money when they clearly aren’t allocating their resources wisely. I’d prefer they establish an emergency fund to buying us gifts. Can we say something, or do we simply fork over the thousands?

ANONYMOUS

What we have here is an immediate problem — a leaking roof, say — and a longer-term one: living within a budget. I know you’re not suggesting withholding help as punishment for frittering away cash on a few “silly gifts” and dinners out (though it sounds a little like that).

Personally, I’m skeptical that such modest thrift would solve either problem. Now, add in the cultural wrinkle that becomes particularly wrinkly at the holidays: Gifts equal love. (Good luck dismantling that one!) So, you’re dealing with a tricky situation.

Here’s what you do: Write a check for the repair today, if you can afford it. (It’s his mother!) And thank them for the silly gifts they send at Christmas. Then, later in January, pay a visit with your husband to his mother and aunt.

Have him say, “Mom, you’ve done so much for me. It was our pleasure to help you. But I think we should visit a financial planner. I want to help you and your sister create a budget that lets you live well and keeps the house in good repair.” If they agree, they may curb their unnecessary spending. If not, send them to the bank for a loan next time.

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Credit…Christoph Niemann

Every year, my spouse and I visit our hometown for the holidays. It’s a whirlwind couple of weeks as we try to see every sister, aunt, nephew and in-law. If we’re lucky, we get a date night. But I have a friend who insists I see her every time I come home. Some years, it’s just not possible or doesn’t cross my mind to text her. If she sees on Instagram that I’m home, she fires off furious messages that I’m not making an effort to see her. Lately, she’s given me the cold shoulder. Should I reach out as an olive branch or let this friendship go?

ANONYMOUS

It’s hard to soothe friends who feel hurt by us without acknowledging their feelings, reasonable or not. And it seems unlikely to me that you’ll convince this friend that you don’t have a minute to spare over 14 days. No one is that busy!

The two of you may simply have an unequal interest in your friendship. If you’re more upset by her “cold shoulder” than by the prospect of not seeing her, let this go for now. Get back in touch, and talk out your feelings, when you’re ready to meet.

My sister married the love of her life this fall. My family and I are thrilled for the newlyweds! Unfortunately, our excitement is not shared by our extended family, who wrote a letter complaining about their placement in the “cheap seats” at the wedding and other longstanding grievances. The problem: My mother has hosted every major holiday for our extended family for years. She is a gracious host and quick to forgive. I am not. I told her: “It’s them or me this Christmas.” What do you think?

BROTHER

Recant your ultimatum immediately. Your wise mother understands that a single hothead wrote that letter, not your entire extended family — just as another hothead reported the brouhaha to me. (Was this letter even addressed to you?)

Friction among family members is inevitable. But our shared history with them often makes it worthwhile to sweep petty squabbles (like “cheap seats”) under the rug. Behave like a gentleman at the Christmas table. And even if you can’t forgive certain relatives now, don’t embarrass your mother by making an ugly scene.

For four years, I bought our holiday wreath from a boy who belongs to a local civic organization. I know his parents socially. Every year, his father contacts his friends on behalf of his son, and his mother delivers the wreaths. I have never interacted with the boy, who is now in high school. This bothers me. So, I decided not to buy a wreath this year. My husband thinks I should continue supporting the civic group. Am I wrong?

SHEILA

I wouldn’t say wrong, exactly. But everyone loses this way. The organization is out your support. The boy doesn’t learn the importance of personal contact to some people. And you don’t get the experience you want — or a wreath. If it’s not too late, tell the father: “We’ll take a wreath. And please bring your son when you deliver it. We’d like to meet our longtime evergreen supplier!”


For help with your awkward situation, send a question to SocialQ@nytimes.com, to Philip Galanes on Facebook or @SocialQPhilip on Twitter.





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Who Made Your Clothes? - The New York Times

Who Made Your Clothes? – The New York Times


Role: Zipper operator at PT. Fajarindo Faliman Zipper, which focuses largely on in-house brands

Where: Tangerang, Indonesia

“Most of my co-workers and I are all old-timers,” said Ms. Rumsinah, who has been working at the same factory for 26 years. “It’s a good factory, so no one really quits. There’s seldom any job openings — only if someone retires.”

She is paid about 3.4 million rupiah, or $241, per month, which she said is tight as a single parent. Her son recently finished high school. “He can’t work at my factory because there’s no openings,” she said. “He wants to be a teacher, but we don’t have enough money to send him to go to university.”

Though her job is tiring, “all jobs are tiring,” she said. “At least weekends are off, and the hours are not too bad.”

Role: Sewing bedsheets and curtains at a textile mill

Where: Pakistan

Waheed, who is being identified only by his first name, has been in the textile industry for 20 years and works seven days a week to support his wife and two young sons. They share a house with his parents, his sisters and his brothers.

“Most factories place a lot of restrictions on garment workers. Once they come in for their shift around 8 in the morning, there’s no knowing when supervisors will let them out. It may be 8 p.m. or 10 p.m. by the time they are allowed to leave for the day.

Workers at my factory don’t have it as bad. That’s why I’ve been here for the past 10 years. It’s a nice place to work. But some of the resources that workers really need aren’t provided, such as first-aid kits or pension cards.

It’s pretty common to get your fingers injured — sometimes needles break and get stuck in your bone if your hand gets in the way of the machine. Then you have to go to the hospital and get X-rays yourself.

It’s difficult to manage on the salary I earn. My expenses amount to about 2,000 rupees a day, including the cost of my children’s clothes, their education, my family’s groceries and other bills. But I barely make 1,000 rupees a day.”

Role: Sews outdoor apparel and bags at Horizon Outdoor

Where: Khum Longvek, Kampong Chhnang, Cambodia

Six days a week, Ms. Hong wakes up at 4:35 a.m. to catch the truck to work from her village. Her workday begins at 7 and usually lasts nine hours, with a lunch break. During the peak season, which lasts two to three months, she works until 8:30 p.m.

Ms. Hong has been in the garment business for 22 years. She earns the equivalent of about $230 a month and supports her father, her sister, her brother (who is on disability) and her 12-year-old son.

She hopes he will not end up in a factory, too, but the price of a quality education — about $20 per month — is beyond her means. While she is at work, her sister manages the household, taking care of their oxen and rice farming their land for extra food.

“I feel tired, but I have no choice,” Ms. Hong said. “I have to work.”

Role: Tracks daily production numbers at Supertex, which works with major active wear brands

Where: Yumbo, Colombia

“They spoil us a lot here,” Ms. Tascon said. “It’s a job with good stability.” Her workplace blasts music — usually salsa or something traditional — from speakers throughout the day while employees make coats, bathing suits and sportswear.

At 11 a.m., employees get “pausas activas”: active breaks with music.

Role: Makes shoes for a comfort footwear brand at PT. Dwi Naga Sakti Abadi

Where: Tangerang, Indonesia

Mr. Sarjimin has worked at the same factory for about 12 years. The job is relatively stable, and his workplace is spacious, bright and safe.

He earns the equivalent of $250 a month, and his wife also works at a factory. The family is able to send their children, a 13-year-old and a 9-year-old, to good schools. They recently purchased a computer for their older son, who is passionate about technology.

Mr. Sarjimin farms catfish to supplement his family’s grocery money. He started six months ago, filling a big empty drum with starter fish as an experiment. Now he has two drums with 300 fish each, and he sells them to friends, family and neighbors.

One day, he would like to raise catfish full time. “There’s a motivational speaker I heard once, ‘You have to dare to dream, how to get there is a question for a different time,’” he said. “I like remembering those words.”

Role: Sewing machine operator at Pinehurst Manufacturing, which works with major active wear brands

Where: San Pedro Sula, Honduras

The factory where Saida has worked for the last 12 years is one of the few in the area. She earns about 8,200 lempira each month, roughly $331. “It doesn’t cover everything,” she said. “Vivimos sobregirados.” (“We live overdrawn.”)

Saida lives with her mother and her 19-year-old daughter, who goes to school. “I am the one who provides everything at home. The house, the water, the electricity,” she said. “You have to stop buying certain things to be able to cover the necessities.”

Her unit currently has one primary client, a major sportswear brand. This is a source of anxiety for her and her co-workers because they fear mass layoffs if the client leaves the company. “It’s really difficult having one client,” she said.

Role: Stitching denim together for sustainability-focused brands at Saitex International

Where: Bien Hoa, Vietnam

Mr. Bui has been at his factory for seven years. “It matches my skill,” he said, “and the salary is enough for my family.” He earns approximately 90 million dong annually, roughly $3,880, which he uses to support his mother, wife and son.

During the average nine-hour workday, “I can finish 1,000 to 1,200 pieces a day, depending on the difficulty,” he said.

Role: Sews clasps and zippers onto dresses, blouses and pants at a factory

Where: Los Angeles

“I’m from Guatemala. I’ve been doing garment work for 16 years. I started because it was the only thing I knew how to do after leaving my home country,” Santiago said. “I came here because there were not as many opportunities back home, and with six children, there are a lot of expenses.”

In the last five years, he has worked in five to eight factories. They are often windowless and dirty, with little ventilation, he said.

When he first moved to Los Angeles, Santiago was working 11-hour shifts, seven days a week. Now he works about 50 hours a week, taking home up to $350. The majority of his co-workers — around 30 other people — are Spanish speakers from Guatemala, El Salvador and Mexico.

“I’m just making ends meet,” he said. “I’m always trying to figure out how to save money, how to buy food, how to not eat out too much.” Still, he said it is better than what he was earning in Guatemala.

Role: Self-employed seamstress

Where: Caruaru, Brazil

The last factory Ms. da Silva worked at produced men’s street wear. She spent eight years there, stitching side seams together in an assembly line with an hourly quota.

“Some companies, like the one I worked for, no longer have employees inside the factory and the seamstresses work from home,” she said. “They establish small groups, tiny factories, and they are paid per item, so they basically have the same production without any costs.”

In order to make minimum wage, outsourced employees “have to work from day to night,” she said.

Ms. da Silva now makes women’s clothing independently, producing fewer pieces and selling them locally. She makes “maybe half” of minimum wage, but she said it’s worth it to work at her own pace. “I love what I do,” she said. “I no longer see myself in that situation of sitting in front of a machine doing the same thing every day.”

She is planning on taking fashion design courses soon. “Seamstresses are the key element in the fashion chain, we are the ones who put the clothes together,” she said. “You basically have to kill yourself in front of a sewing machine in order to provide for your family.”

Role: Leather quality control at Tod’s Group

Where: Casette d’Ete, Italy

Mr. Ripani, who began working with leather at 14, has been employed by Tod’s for more than 40 years, where he assesses “practically all the hides that arrive” for quality.

“Alone it’s hard to do everything, so I have a group of ragazzi [guys] under me and I have taught them everything I’ve been able to understand after all these years,” he said.

Mr. Ripani doesn’t earn much, he said, but he sets his own schedule, often working eight to 12 hours a day. He has assistants and has received awards for his highly specialized work.

“It’s not so much the salary, it’s that I am here because we’re all one family,” he said. “When I started, I had long hair. Now, I am bald.”

Role: Security at Sitara Textile Industries

Where: Faisalabad, Pakistan

Rukhsana began working in the garment industry shortly after her husband died seven years ago. She works seven days a week.

“The hardest thing about working in a textile mill is that management kind of cuts you off from the world for the duration of your shift. If anyone calls you from home — with good news or bad news — you can’t take the call and management doesn’t tell you until the day is over.

Two years ago, my nephew died in an accident when I was working. My brother tried calling me, but management didn’t tell me about it until my family had already held his funeral. I was so upset, I quit my job.

Now that I’m in security, I know when someone comes to the mill and tries to contact a worker. But I’m still not allowed to tell the worker their relative has been trying to reach them.

It’s not just difficult, it’s impossible to survive on the salary the textile mills pay. Are we supposed to choose between buying food and roti or paying for clothes and medicine? And there’s always rent to pay in addition to that.”

(Employees store their phones in a locker before beginning their shift, a company spokesman said in a phone interview, and they aren’t allowed to leave the organization “without any written acknowledgment from the manager.”

He said that family can reach employees on their cellphones or by calling the factory directly, and that he was not aware of any incidents in which family was prevented or delayed from contacting an employee during an emergency. )

Role: Sews dress shirts for mass retailers at TAL Apparel

Where: Binh Xuyen, Vinh Phuc, Vietnam

Mr. Vu has spent the last four years working on a production line with about 30 other employees, each overseeing parts of the sewing process. On average, he earns about 10 to 12 million dong (about $432 to $518) monthly. He sends most of it back to his family.

“My favorite time is at 3 p.m., when we have an exercise session,” he said. “We stay at our work spot. We pause our work process, line up and follow the exercise instructions of team leaders.”

He recently participated in a talent show hosted by the company, where he performed modern dance. “I don’t have plans to leave this job anytime soon,” he said. “I’m quite satisfied with it.”

Role: Leather goods artisan at Louis Vuitton

Where: Saint-Pourçain-sur-Sioule, France

Ms. Gamet began working with leather when she was 16 years old and has been employed by Vuitton for 23 years. “To be able to build bags and all, and to be able to sew behind the machine, to do hand-sewn products, it is my passion,” she said. “That’s how I got into it.”

About 800 employees work in Saint-Pourçain, spread out across four sites. Ms. Gamet said the workshops are well organized, bright and modern. “The time flies by,” she said.

Role: Tailor making pants and socks for fast fashion and active wear brands at Shahi Exports

Where: India

S.’s shift begins at 9 a.m. She feels a lot of pressure from supervisors to reach quotas of about 90 to 120 pieces per hour and said many workers are afraid to take breaks or use the restroom because it will waste time.

Employees who can’t keep up are often pulled aside at the end of each hour, she said, and supervisors will yell at them and bang on tables. Many workers spend most of their 30-minute lunch breaks scrambling to finish more pieces to get back on track.

In a separate email, a spokesman said that berating employees in any way “constitutes misconduct,” and instances brought to management’s attention would “initiate action” against the perpetrator.

“While we do strive to drive efficiencies, there is no scope to berate any employee on account of non-performance or deficient performance,” he said. The spokesman added that there “is adequate ventilation” within the work space and that the entire factory is “in compliance with the law.”)

S. is a single parent and picks up extra work in the evenings, along with taking out loans, to support herself and her daughter. “There are thousands of people” in her city in the same situation, she said. “My story is just one of them.”

Role: Tailor at Friends Factory

Where: Noida, India

Ms. Bano has been a tailor for about 22 years and works at a progressive factory that makes small batches of garments for high-end independent brands. The building has little luxuries like air purifiers.

“It feels nice working here,” Ms. Bano said. “It’s clean. There are some plants and trees also, you know, the kind that are meant for decoration.”

Role: Seamstress at Fantasia D!kas Roupas

Where: Nova Friburgo, Brazil

“I’ve always thought of myself as a seamstress. I even made my daughter’s sweet-16 dress. It looks like overlapping petals. It’s my greatest pride.

I start work at 7 a.m. We make everything: pants, shorts, tops. I work eight hours a day Mondays to Fridays with a one-hour lunch break. It’s a small company: me and five other seamstresses. We don’t have a quota. Here they value quality over quantity. I don’t even know how many pieces I work on in a given day. We don’t keep track.

Ms. da Silva does not make enough money from her day job, so she picks up extra work from private clients to complete on evenings and weekends, sometimes working until 10 p.m.

I prefer working for this manufacturer because I’m on the payroll, I’m entitled to vacations. It’s more secure. But my dream is to have my own atelier at home.”


Knvul Sheikh contributed reporting.



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Nancy Pelosi Went Dark for the House Debates. Her Pin Shined.

Nancy Pelosi Went Dark for the House Debates. Her Pin Shined.


“I solemnly and sadly open the debate on the impeachment of the president of the United States.”

So said Nancy Pelosi, the speaker of the House, on Wednesday morning as she stood in the cavernous chamber of the House of Representatives in a lapelless black suit, almost military in design, with a high neck. Its somber color was a reflection of the darkness of the day and the conscious choice for a woman fluent in the communicative uses of color. Atop it, a dagger-like gold pin shone out over her heart like a beacon.

But what was it?

Immediately the watching public began to wonder. After all, it was impossible to miss, standing out not just against her suit, but amid the sea of little congressional buttons and American flags worn by Ms. Pelosi’s colleagues. (In politics, a pin is never just a pin — at least not since Madeleine Albright published a book on her brooch diplomacy.) Clearly it was no mere decoration.

Indeed not. It is her power pin.

Literally (and also possibly metaphorically), it is a symbol of the office she holds.

And though there was some confusion in the watching public over what, exactly, it was, with some speculating on social media that it represented the Caduceus pin, or a medical symbol, and others comparing it to the Hand of the King from “Game of Thrones,” the pin actually represents the Mace of the United States House of Representatives: the long, blunt battle staff that has embodied the legislative branch’s authority since 1789.

Take that, ye errant executive, or something.

According to a website that catalogs the history of the House of Representatives, the mace is composed of 13 bundled rods, which look like a dagger from afar. They nod to the ancient Roman fasces, used to communicate strength through unity, and represent the original 13 states. The bundled rods are crowned by a globe — i.e., the world — atop which sits an American bald eagle, representing the obvious.

The object itself, the site says, “is usually placed atop a pedestal to the Speaker’s right side” when the House is in session. If the House meets outside its traditional chamber, the mace follows.

The current House mace was made by the New York silversmith William Adams in 1841, but Ms. Pelosi’s pin is a somewhat more modern interpretation.

It was made by Ann Hand, a designer in Washington, D.C., who specializes in patriotic jewelry, and is the wife of Lloyd Hand, the chief of protocol under Lyndon Johnson. According to her website, Ms. Hand is also responsible for “the official pin worn by the spouses of the U.S. House of Representatives” and has also made “brooches for all the Armed Services, the Naval Academy and West Point” (among other governmental bodies).

Her mace pin is brass with a gold overlay and has a pearl (or faux pearl) for the globe. It sells for $125, and at the moment it is on backorder. Its most famous owner has, apparently, set off something of a trend.





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Rosé Champagne Brings the Holiday Joy

Rosé Champagne Brings the Holiday Joy


We haven’t even explored the different villages of Champagne and their characteristics, or the various production methods. Perhaps I can be accused of oversimplifying as well.

If you do have an appetite for further exploration, I highly recommend “Champagne: The Essential Guide to the Wines, Producers and Terroirs of the Iconic Region” by Peter Liem. Otherwise, simply enjoy.

Tasting Notes

★★★½ Tarlant Champagne Rosé Zero Brut Nature NV $60

Tightly coiled, energetic and balanced, with lingering, stony flavors of red fruit, herbs and cream. (Louis/Dressner Selections, New York)

★★★½ Diebolt-Vallois Champagne Rosé Brut NV $55

Creamy, balanced and elegant, with light flavors of red fruits. (Petit Pois/Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, N.J.)

★★★ Vilmart & Cie Champagne Rosé Cuvée Rubis Brut NV $88

Lively and energetic, with complex, savory flavors of light red fruits, herbs and citrus. (Terry Theise Estate Selections/Skurnik Wines, New York)

★★★ Hugues Godmé Champagne Rosé Brut Grand Cru NV $60

Unusual, almost Burgundian in style, with creamy texture and lively, subtle, chalky flavors. (Grand Cru Selections, New York)

★★★ Bérêche et Fils Champagne Rosé Extra Brut Campania Remensis NV $90

Rich, fresh and energetic, with fruity, peachy flavors, tangy and refreshing. (Petit Pois/Sussex Wine Merchants)



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Critics’ Claws Are Out for ‘Cats’: A Roundup of Reviews

Critics’ Claws Are Out for ‘Cats’: A Roundup of Reviews


Peter Debruge, Variety’s chief film critic, said the director Tom Hooper’s “outlandishly tacky interpretation seems destined to become one of those once-in-a-blue-moon embarrassments that mars the résumés of great actors” and “trips up the careers of promising newcomers.”

One of the main draws of the film was supposedly the special effects to crossbreed feline and human anatomies using a technique called “digital fur technology.” The effects, however, have been most kindly described as “creepy.”

“Millions of dollars and thousands of hours have been sunk into making the cats in ‘Cats’ look like hypertrichotic mutants from the Uncanny Valley Of Dr. Moreau, with tails and furry faces and hairless human fingers and toes,” Ignatiy Vishnevetsky wrote for The AV Club. “Their proportions in relation to the sets seem all wrong.”

David Rooney of The Hollywood Reporter offered this reminder to those who watched the trailer:

If you recoiled back then at the sight of British acting royalty with their faces stuck onto little furry bodies, or even just the jarring image of cats with human breasts, chances are you’ll still be covering your eyes and peering in a profoundly disturbed state through the gaps between your fingers at the finished film. At least until boredom sets in.

“Anyone who takes small children to this movie is setting them up for winged-monkey levels of night terrors,” Ty Burr of The Boston Globe wrote.

“I truly believe our divided nation can be healed and brought together as one by ‘Cats’ — the musical, the movie, the disaster,” he said. “In other news, my eyes are burning. Oh God, my eyes.”

Matt Goldberg, writing for Collider, nodded to the onscreen sexual tension:

But if it wasn’t enough to make the cats horny (why are they so horny), Hooper also feels the need to make it gross by having them dig through trash and play up their animal instincts. “Cats” always feels like it’s two seconds away from turning into a furry orgy in a dumpster. That’s the energy you have to sit with for almost two hours.

Slate’s headline was succinct: “The ‘Cats’ Movie Is a Void of Horny Confusion.”

Tyler Coates of Wired said the film was “awful”:

It has been a while since a big-budget, star-packed studio film has felt like such a disaster from start to finish. Befuddling, confusing, deeply ugly, and incredibly un-fun, I surely won’t be the only critic to recommend ‘Cats’ be put down immediately. What has for decades been something of a pop culture joke is now an even more wackadoo entertainment event. It’s almost as if Hooper and company were tasked with making the worst movie they could conceive of, that it was one epic troll — that could be the nicest thing I could say about it, that they have achieved something.

“I realize that critique won’t be used in Cats’ advertising campaign,” Mara Reinstein of Us Weekly wrote. “But the musical does indeed have its merits — and is not nearly as disastrous as you feared.”



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